GemGenève established in 2018 by two of industry leaders and insiders, Ronny Totah (Horovits & Totath) and Thomas Faerber (Faerber-Collection) as they recognised a gap in the market, an exhibition organised by seasoned exhibitors, an intimate setting to bring the industry together. Initially started with 147 exhibitors in 2018 and reached 210 exhibitors in May edition of 2023. As the organisers mentioned in the opening ceremony, there was a slight decrese in number of visitors and visits which attributed to the current geopolitical situation in the Middle East and Europe. Given the circumstances.

As Ronny Totah emphasised: “the slight decrease in traffic compared to last November doesn’t appear to have had an impact on sales volumes. The exhibitors benefited from a favourable environment for business, discussions, and networking opportunities with connoisseurs and amateur enthusiasts alike.” He added: “The fine jewellery market and the upper echelons of the antique and collectors’ jewellery market are in good shape overall. Natural pearls, high-quality coloured stones and signed jewels remain highly sought-after. While it’s difficult to gauge the volume of sales and analyse trends, it would appear that things are just as they were in previous editions.”

 

Thomas Faerber had this to say: “Market conditions remain healthy, buoyed by inflation in many regions of the world, adding to the appeal of high-quality pieces as safe investments.”

Total number of exhibitors in Autumn 2023 was 172 and total number of visitors and visits were 3,218 and 4,579 respectively. Visitors travelled from 92 countries, most came from Switzerland (1,211), followed by France (over 700), Italy (197), Belgium (149), the UK (120) and the USA (84).

Beyond the glittering showcases, GemGenève November 2023 aimed to foster a deeper understanding of gemstones’ cultural and historical significance. The Pearl Odyssey exhibition was a true example of such. The flag-ship feature of this edition, was a roaring success with professionals and private clients and the general public alike. The Pearl Odyssey tells the story of the pearl tradition and its treasures from ancient times through to the state-of-the-art techniques used in contemporary laboratories, allowing visitors to GemGenève to discover outstanding pieces from among the finest private and heritage collections. The exhibition was made possible thanks to the support of Chaumet, the Alfardan Collection, the Flee Project collective, the SSEF laboratory and a private collector, with the collaboration of partner exhibitors (Faerber-Collection, Gem Collectors Bookshop, Heritage Gems, Horovitz & Totah SA, Joseph Gad, Nicolas Torroni, Ocean Flame, and Swiss Pearls) and other dealers including Hofer Antischmuck, Oasis Pearl and Ecija.

The exhibition provides a platform not only for established jewelry houses but also for emerging designers to make their mark. It’s a fusion of creativity, where innovation and tradition coalesce, giving rise to pieces that transcend time and trends. Hence the “Designer Village” led by Nadege Totah, showcasing five Emerging Talents and four New Designers. For the fourth time running, GemGenève set aside a very special place for the Strong & Precious Art Foundation: Ukrainian Jewellers bringing together six Ukrainian designers.

Gem Geneve isn’t just an exhibition; it’s a celebration the industry by leaders in all sectors from natural diamonds, rare gems, exceptional jewels with history. Perfect place for networking and purchasing unique and rare stones and pieces.

Estate and vintage jewelry bring a sense of nostalgia and history to the forefront of Gem Geneve. These pieces, often characterized by intricate designs and craftsmanship from bygone eras, tell stories of the past. Antique jewelry, typically dating back a century or more, reflects the styles and sentiments of the time in which they were created. Vintage pieces, while not as ancient, still boast a certain charm with designs from the mid-20th century. The exhibition becomes a treasure trove for collectors and enthusiasts seeking not just jewelry but also a connection to the aesthetics and sentiments of different periods. It’s an opportunity to appreciate the enduring appeal of designs that have stood the test of time, offering a bridge between the past and the present.

You can access the full panel discussion on the Future of Social Media Marketing of Jewellery here:

https://www.youtube.com/live/H2pQeptrKfA?si=vaQRhVhAyD_08EAx

In essence, Gem Geneve serves as a melting pot where the brilliance of natural diamonds, the kaleidoscope of gemstones, and the timeless allure of estate and vintage jewelry converge, creating an unparalleled experience for those who appreciate the artistry, history, and natural wonders that adorn the world of fine jewelry.

Huge thanks to the GemGeneve team for including me in the 7th edition. Looking forward to the 8th edition: May 9-12, 2024!

One of the hallmarks of The Diamond Guild Australia is its steadfast commitment to using only natural diamonds. The guild firmly believes that the beauty and authenticity of natural diamonds cannot be replicated. Their unwavering stance against synthetic diamonds reinforces their dedication to preserving the allure of nature’s creations. This ensures that consumers can trust DGA members to provide them with the highest quality and most genuine gemstones, allowing them to cherish their jewellery for generations to come.

On the topic of natural diamonds, J Farren-Price a DGA member emphasised  that they do not support the sale of lab grown diamonds to our high-end customer base. We have seen how their value keeps falling and do not believe we are doing our clients a favour by promoting them. For sure there is a market and client for lab grown, it is just not a sector we focus on.

Membership in The Diamond Guild Australia is an exclusive privilege, and the selection process is nothing short of meticulous. Potential members are evaluated not only on their technical expertise but also on their commitment to ethical and sustainable practices, use of only natural diamonds as well as their contribution to the industry. The guild’s dedication to maintaining the highest standards ensures that its members are a select group of reputable jewellers who uphold the legacy of Australian jewelry craftsmanship.

Berj Ohannessian confirms that being a member of the Guild has helped enhance customer confidence even further in their brand, BERJANI!

 

J Farren-Price second that and mentions Members of the guild have a reputation for integrity and have set a benchmark for quality and ethics in the sale of diamonds. J Farren- Price have and always will, stand by these values and our loyal clientele who have supported us for decades is a testament to how we are perceived in this competitive local market. Through our exceptional attention to detail and unwavering commitment to providing quality jewellery to last a lifetime, this is the reputation that we have built over 80 years as a family-owned business.

The guild boasts a stellar roster of current members, each representing the pinnacle of jewelry craftsmanship in Australia. These members are the driving force behind the guild’s mission to elevate the Australian jewelry industry on the global stage. Their commitment to excellence is evident in the exquisite pieces they create. Here is a complete list of Diamond Guild Australia:

BERJANI | BRETT’S JEWELLERS | CALLEIJA | CREATIONS JEWELLERS | HOGANS FAMILY JEWELLERS | HOLDWOTH BROS JEWELLERS | J FARREN -PRICE | JAMES THREDGOLD JEWELLER | JEFF EINSTEIN | LINNEYS | MONDIAL PINK DIAMOND ATELIER | MUSSON JEWELLERS| MATTHEW ELY | PERCY MARKS | ROHAN JEWELLERS | STEPHEN DIBB JEWELLERY | TREWARNE FINE JEWELLERY |

Celebrating Excellence: Jewelry Awards

One of the most anticipated events in the world of Australian jewelry is the biannual Jewelry Awards hosted by The Diamond Guild Australia. These awards celebrate the creativity, innovation, and technical skill of jewellers who create stunning pieces using natural diamonds. Winning a Diamond Guild award is a mark of distinction and a testament to an artisan’s dedication to their craft. The DGA’s jewellery awards not only celebrate the talent within the Australian jewellery industry but also serve as a platform to promote the beauty and value of natural diamonds. By exclusively recognizing pieces made with natural diamonds, the DGA reinforces the importance of these precious gemstones and encourages consumers to appreciate their unique qualities. The last Jewellery Award was held in 2018 and after five years of hiatus due to COVID-19 finally the most anticipated Jewellery Awards returned in 2023.

Jeff Einstein was hoping to see a new refreshing style of designs in this year’s DGA awards, as emerging and existing talent possibly didn’t have as many opportunities to enter competitions, and over the past few years have been able to explore new designs and techniques.

 

Olivar Musson also adds that the excitement surrounding these awards is palpable. Designers all over Australia have been preparing to unleash their creativity in the most prestigious diamond design awards in Australia. I know at Musson, we have been developing concepts for years that we are ready to present in these awards with the goal of winning the Supreme Award for a third time.

The DGA’s jewellery awards are renowned for their rigorous judging process, ensuring that only the most deserving pieces are recognized and celebrated. A panel of esteemed industry experts, including renowned jewellers, gemologists, and designers, carefully evaluate each submission based on criteria such as design, craftsmanship, use of materials, and overall aesthetic appeal. This ensures that the awards maintain a high standard of excellence and provide a platform for exceptional talent to shine. For 2023 Jewellery Awards I was honoured to be part of the judging panel along with Karlie Ungar Creative Director of CARLA ZAMPATTI, Dr Brandon Gien CEO of GOOD DESIGN AUSTRALIA and Lester Brand Managing Director of LESTER BRAND JEWELLERY.

The award ceremony was held on October 24th at The Langham Gold Coast, an invigorating and glamorous evening that brought together industry leaders to celebrate their craft and most exceptional creations.  The winners of each category were announced, and their exceptional pieces were showcased, allowing attendees to appreciate the beauty and craftsmanship up close.

Here are the categories including finalists and winners:

“WINNER OF EVERYDAY DIAMONDS CATEGORY”

TROIS by Robert Musson of Musson Jewellers

-FINALIST OF EVERYDAY DIAMOND CATEGORY-

GLISTENING LAGOON by Natalie Alegria of Creations Jewellers Canberra

“WINNER OF DIAMONDS FOR MEN CATEGORY”

VELOCITA by Chantelle Green & Andrew Want of Calleija

-FINALIST OF DIAMONDS FOR MEN CATEGORY-

DIAMOND METROPOLIS by Cassandra Nitschke of Bell And Brunt Jewellers

“WINNER OF RED CARPET CATEGORY”

BLOOM by Robert Musson of Musson Jewellers

Olivar Musson, Creative Director of Musson Jewellers explains on the creative process of designing a piece: I believe a winning design must be striking and challenging on first impression. I achieve this by striving for innovation in setting. Creating a new technique to secure the diamond to enhance its brilliance and shape is my starting point. I then sculpt the rest of the piece around that. This process ensures the design is both innovative and unique.  Robert Musson, founder of Musson Jewellers, and Olivar’s father won two categories at the Jewellery Awards 2023.

-FINALIST FOR RED CARPET CATEGORY-

CALLISTEMON by Berj Ohanessian of Berjani Jewellers 

-FINALIST FOR RED CARPET CATEGORY-

PEACOCK by Jeff Einstein of Jeff Einstein Jewellery

“WINNER OF DESIGN FOR DIAMOND”

ORIONID by Alain Anson of Stephen Dibb Jewellery

-FINALIST FOR DESIGN FOR DIAMONDS CATEGORY-

LE RUBAN D’OR by Louis Dauxais of Matthew Ely Jewellery

“WINNER FANCY COLOURED DIAMONDS CATEGORY”

THE KALEIDOSCOPE by Nadia Neuman and Burt Muller of Mondial Pink Diamond Atelier

Nadia Neuman, founder of Mondial by Nadia and winner of Fancy Colour Diamond category as well as the winner of Supreme Award mentions that her inspiration always comes from the gemstone itself and then it’s the story I want to tell through the creation we make. Its finding a uniquely beautiful stone and figuring out how best to convey what makes it so special. It’s the unique colour or shape or feeling of a particular stone that inspires the theme of the piece. If were using a selection of stones, its what those stones say as a collection; the variety, the rarity and what they create together that sparks an idea. When entering a competition, I’ve never considered what’s traditional. There are certain rules that we know work through experience, there are tones and hues when combined that bring out the best in gemstones or add contrast. There are certain styles of setting and textures of gold that make a piece look contemporary or of an era but other than those things the most exciting part about entering a competition is that there are very few boundaries. The creation process is all consuming and very exciting. Once we’ve decided on the stone and I have a clearer idea of what we want to say, there is inspiration everywhere and that’s how the creation evolves. With regards to creating something unique, it’s a moment when I get to create something that I personally love. That’s what makes it unique. It’s a particular style and taste and combination of stones, metals and ideas that make sense to me personally.

-FINALIST FOR FANCY COLOURED DIAMONDS CATEGORY-

ECLOSION by Ben Preston Black and Rowan Thin-Smith of Creations Jewellers Canberra

-FINALIST FOR FANCY COLOURED DIAMONDS CATEGORY-

SUMMERTIME SUNSET by Travis Terwarne of Trewarne Fine Diamonds

“WINNER OF SOLITAIRE DIAMONDS CATEGORY”

ORSAY by Benjamin Tracy of Finelines Jewellers

-FINALIST OF SOLITAIRE DIAMOND CATEGORY-

TEARS OF JOY by Travis Terwarne of Trewarne Fine Diamonds

“WINNER OF SUPREME AWARD”

THE KALEIDOSCOPE by Nadia Neuman and Burt Muller of Mondial Pink Diamond Atelier

“WINNER OF PEOPLE’S CHOICE AWARD”

ORIONID by Alain Anson of Stephen Dibb Jewellery

It was a privilege to be part of sponsors of the event along with following brands and being on the esteemed judging panel of Jewellery Awards 2023, I am grateful to The Diamond Guild Australia for their trust in me and my social media platforms. Congratulations to all the entrants, each submitted piece was beyond expectations and displayed pure talent and strong craftmanship.

Established by the visionary entrepreneurs, Chirag and Chinar Shah, in 2011. With headquarters in Antwerp, Belgium, Anita Diamonds has rapidly gained recognition for its unwavering commitment to quality and as of today Anita Diamonds has over 150 employees worldwide. Currently, Chinar is growing Anita Diamonds in the Middle East from their office in Dubai and Chirag’s daughter, Yashvi, has joined the company as the next generation.

Click to view slideshow.For the past decade, Anita Diamonds has been a symbol of Antwerp’s illustrious diamond legacy. Chirag started working in diamond industry at a young age in 1993. He and his brother lost their parents early in life and had a difficult upbringing. While under guardianship of their grandparents, Chirag decided to join the family business (diamond merchants) to provide for their family. After working for 2 years in Tel Aviv, he moved to Antwerp where he was working with one his uncles in polished diamonds business. 20 years into business, he and his brother decided to start their own company, Anita Diamonds, honoring their mother’s name. Since they had established an excellent reputation in the industry due to their hard work and unwavering commitment to their clients, they managed to start Anita Diamonds on their own which led to be a successful company.

The city itself boasts a rich heritage in the diamond trade, with a history dating back over five centuries. Antwerp’s diamond district is renowned worldwide, and Anita Diamonds plays a pivotal role in preserving and perpetuating this heritage. Their commitment to ethical sourcing and adherence to the Kimberley Process has not only contributed to the industry’s integrity but also upheld Antwerp’s reputation as a responsible and reliable source of diamonds.

Click to view slideshow.Furthermore, Anita Diamonds takes pride in empowering its workforce. Their commitment to education and training ensures that their employees are equipped with the skills and knowledge needed to excel in their craft. This investment in human capital not only reflects their commitment to quality but also supports the local community. Social responsibility is another aspect to Anita Diamonds, providing best facilities for their employees to thrive, as well as work life balance, Anita Diamonds sponsor many sport events to project the positive image for diamond industry.

Click to view slideshow.In an ever-evolving industry, Anita Diamonds remains dedicated to innovation. They continuously explore cutting-edge technologies to enhance the diamond-cutting process, ensuring that their diamond continue to shine brighter than ever. This forward-looking approach positions the company as a leader in the diamond sector, ready to embrace the challenges and opportunities of the 21st century. While visiting Anita Diamonds, I had the opportunity to visit their diamond manufacturing facility. Here is a video:

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A post shared by CHAMPAGNE GEM®️ by Bebe Bakhshi (@champagnegem)

One of the core elements that sets Anita Diamonds apart is their firm stand to the use of natural diamonds, a choice that embodies their dedication to authenticity, quality, and the preservation of Earth’s natural wonders. Their dedication to the authenticity of natural diamonds ensures that customers can be confident in the origin and quality of their precious gems. Every diamond in their collection is a natural masterpiece, unaltered by human hands beyond expert cutting and polishing.

Anita Diamonds; The most incredible team in Antwerp!

Anita Diamonds understands the immense responsibility that comes with being a player in the diamond industry. The company is committed to ensuring that every step of their supply chain adheres to ethical practices. From sourcing to cutting and polishing, Anita Diamonds prioritizes transparency and accountability. They actively engage with their suppliers to ensure that their diamonds are conflict-free and responsibly sourced, upholding the highest standards of corporate responsibility.

Click to view slideshow.Anita Diamonds represents the epitome of Antwerp’s diamond heritage. Their unwavering commitment to ethics, excellence, and sustainability, coupled with a forward-looking vision, ensures that this iconic company will continue to shine brightly on the global stage.

The diamond mining industry has been long regarded as one of the most prestigious resource mining operations, and for good reason. Such precious stones have been created by Mother Nature, over the course of millions of years, in a few locations worldwide. Much like other mining and precious resources industries, the diamond mining industry has evolved through time from the first discovery of diamonds in some of the more remote places on the planet, to the current massive and sophisticated operations that now produce most of the world’s diamonds.

‘Blood Diamonds’ – Challenging a Long-Held Misconception of the Diamond Industry

Edward Zwick’s 2007 movie ‘Blood Diamond’ has cemented itself in the minds of many, and highlighted the need for greater and stricter regulation of diamond mines internationally. However, such tighter regulation was in fact already put in place and developing just a few years prior to the movie’s release. This regulation is known as the ‘Kimberley Process’ which prevents the proceeds of diamond sales from funding conflicts, terrorism or unlawful trading in the international diamond market and calls for the ethical treatment of workers, and the responsible use of funds and exports to conduct the mining of this precious resource. Many diamond mines globally now adhere to and follow the Kimberley Process. Unfortunately, despite the significant progress made by the industry over the past decade, there is still a lingering and widespread misconception about mining operations in the diamond industry.  Recently, I have had the opportunity to visit the world’s largest diamond mining company, De Beers, in South Africa, which enabled me to experience firsthand an in-depth, behind-the-scenes insight into the mining process, operation and challenges faced by the industry.

A Rare Glimpse into Diamond Mining

 In September 2019, De Beers opened its doors for the first time to the Venetia Diamond Mine to welcome 25 members of the Young Diamantaires* group; from over 10 countries. This was a group designed to represent the next generation of diamond industry members, founded by Mr. Rami Baron, Chairman of the Promotional Committee of the World Federation of Diamond Bourses (WFDB). The trip was also organized with great thanks to Mr. Ernest Blom, World President of the WFDB, Mr. Molefi Leftivski, Mr. Kealeboga Pule and Mr. Frank Auger. I was fortunate enough to be invited on this trip, and to learn first-hand, not only as a jeweller, but as an Exploration Geologist, about the mining operation and processing of rough diamonds at the mine site, and to experience conditions at the Venetia Mine. The colossal mine spans approximately 17.7 hectares, and contains two sections, an open-pit mine to a depth of 450 m, and an underground mine that spans nearly 1,000 m depth. The Venetia open pit mine opened in 1992, and provides the region with 4,365 jobs. It is South Africa’s largest diamond producer which produced 4.2 million carats in 2018. The underground portion of the mine has been deepened to a depth of 1,080 meters, extending the life of the mine until 2046, and producing a further 2,000 jobs in the process. This is no small operation, but what is not often discussed is the benefit that this scale of mining brings not only to local communities, but to the environment that it operates in and the development of the region. In light of the current trend towards synthetic stones and lab-created ‘diamonds’, there has never been a better time to discuss the key benefits of natural diamond mining.

The Unspoken Benefits of Natural Diamond Mining in South Africa

Perhaps not widely recognised is the major contribution large companies such as De Beers play in the role of education, healthcare, environment and employment in the communities and areas they are working in. While De Beers makes significant profits from diamond mining, major re-investment of capital back into local communities, the level of safety maintained at their mine sites and taking good environmental stewardship of the regions in which they operate is of paramount importance. De Beers promotes a strict policy of ‘Zero Harm’ with significant priority given to reducing Lost Time Injuries (LTI) at the Venetia mine site. De Beers were very forthcoming in sharing statistics and discussing incidents that have happened at the mine with full transparency. It was very apparent that employee safety is the company’s primary concern and taken extremely seriously. The mine site itself was clean and well-organized, with many safety measures in place to ensure safe and comfortable working conditions. One such example, was the installation of underground ‘rescue bays’, designed to rescue workers in the event of mine collapse or other major accidents where workers congregate in a secure area if trapped underground. We had the chance to speak openly with workers around the mine site who were on shift that day, and they were all too happy, allowing us to take photos and answer any questions that we had. Both women and men were working their shifts at the mine site wearing the appropriate safety gear and following procedure. The entire operation appeared well organised and managed with a strong emphasis on teamwork, following strict safety procedures while applying the ‘Zero Harm’ mindset to all tasks. Another key area that the company focusses on is the environment. One major example of this is when De Beers purchased 36,000 hectares surrounding the 17.7 hectares used for the Venetia Mine in order to create the Venetia Limpopo Nature Reserve (VLNR), which conserves and protects many native species, such as elephants, from harm and in particular poaching. Without the mine, this area would have been left as farming land excluding the protection and free range of many native species. De Beers is committed to preserving the natural landscape of South Africa, in that for every Baobab tree uprooted in the development of the Venetia Mine, the Baobab and its roots were preserved, and re-planted at the VLNR, in order to preserve the life of these iconic and important species. It is also important to note that one third of water used at the mine site is recycled for later use.

Investing In Their Future – Community Initiatives

In addition to providing thousands of jobs for local workers, the company has provided a multitude of benefits in terms of environmental and social benefits in the region. One such example is that De Beers has built 19 schools in the region to support the local community. The Limpopo region, where the mine is located, suffers from heavily over-enrolled schools, hence De Beers’ efforts in this area have been extremely important for young people. The company has also implemented the ‘De Beers Teacher Subvention Programme’ that provides the enhanced capacity for mathematics and science educators to work at schools. Such programs have been implemented at the Renaissance High School, Messina Primary, Eric Louw High School and Musina School. We were fortunate to visit the local Renaissance High School which revealed the extent of over-enrolment and an acknowledgement that there is still so much more to be done as the region expands. An important discussion was initiated by Mr. Baron, in which the participating Young Diamantaires members devised a plan to raise $140,000 USD to extend and upgrade the Renaissance Secondary School in the regional town of Musina in order to build a library and a commercial-grade cafeteria for the students studying at the school.  As an Exploration Geologist, I believe emphasis should be placed on working with secondary teachers to help develop a program for secondary students to learn about the Geosciences in order to provide them with a working background of how to responsibly explore for, mine and develop such precious resources.  These students are living in such a resource-rich country and such education would not only place them in a stronger position to understand the resources industry, but also enhance long-term job prospects. I will be exploring opportunities to volunteer at the end of my PhD studies to introduce more Geoscience education to secondary schools in this resource-rich region. Another very important area where De Beers makes an important contribution is its long-standing history of providing its employees with critical healthcare assistance. One such example is that as of 2019, nearly all of the company’s employees are aware of their HIV status and are fully medicated. In the last 10 years, there has been no HIV transmission between any mother employed by De Beers to her child which is a significant measure that demonstrates the company’s dedication to the healthcare of its employees.

The visit to the region also provided an opportunity to discuss initiatives to assist the growth and development of the Johannesburg-based diamond cutters. One initiative involves a pilot program of purchasing diamonds directly from the cutting and polishing manufacturers themselves in Johannesburg, as opposed to international intermediaries, in order to assist local business and to assist sales in the target countries. One final, but important fact is that De Beers has long-supported local women, with the Accelerating Women Owned Micro-Enterprises (AWOME) program. This program is designed to provide local women with micro-financed loans to start their own businesses and to create more jobs and administer business training in order to reduce the rate of unemployment, to reduce financial dependence and to build skills. Some such examples of these projects can be found at De Beers Group “Building Forever” initiative. These are just some of the benefits that have come from natural diamond mining. As discussed, the impact of the Venetia Mine has had far-reaching benefits across the communities in the region. While I have not had the experience of visiting many different diamond mines internationally, the experience to me as a diamond dealer, geologist and jeweller was invaluable. The transparency of De Beers in allowing us to view their operations at the Venetia Mine and speak to their people was greatly appreciated and underscores the confidence they have in their operations. It is my hope that every company follows this example, and employs similar practices and transparencies in mining their own diamonds.

The Synthetic ‘Diamond’ Trade – Marketing and Myths

The natural diamond mining industry is currently facing challenges from the synthetic diamond industry, which produces laboratory-manufactured diamonds. The story told by many synthetic or lab-grown diamond traders is that their stones are ‘conflict-free’, and ‘eco-friendly’. Firstly, it is simply incorrect to assume and market that all natural Earth-mined diamonds are derived from conflict areas, and mined in unethical, un-regulated mines used to fund terrorism and conflict. Secondly, in order to create a synthetic, or lab-made diamond, extreme temperature and pressure and the use of petroleum-based chemicals is applied to a ‘seed’ crystal to produce a fully man-manufactured stone. This process consumes a large amount of energy and chemicals, which produces a large quantity of emissions, heat and waste, per stone in large factories. This can hardly be argued as totally ‘eco-friendly’ when we consider the scale of production, the size of the factories and the methods for production that creates a synthetic stone.

The problem for synthetic diamond manufacturers is that while synthetic stones are still priced at ~20-30% less than natural Earth-mined diamonds, they actually cannot hold their value on the international market, which is a problem for the consumer. Why? Because anything that can be created en-masse in a laboratory with lack of scarcity value implies that the product’s supply is virtually endless, hence no appreciation or retention of value can be maintained. Consumers need to be made aware of the facts that divide lab-made and natural stones, and need to make the choice to purchase something beautiful and unique created by over millions of years that appreciates in value, or to compromise with an inferior product that cannot foreseeably hold its value, and has no limit to its supply. It is, however, important and reasonable to ask your jeweller or wholesaler where their diamonds are sourced to ensure that their diamonds are derived from conflict-free regions and regulated mines.

Our Diamonds and Process

At Saphira Diamonds, 100% of our diamonds are natural and Earth-mined, sourced from regulated mines in conflict-free regions.  We work only with manufacturers who purchase rough diamonds from mines that are regulated, and many who are part of the Responsible Jewellery Council and from countries and mines that follow the Kimberley Process. We recognise that purchasing diamonds is a significant investment and seek to provide our clients with the confidence, education and all of the facts required to make the right decision for them. We are proud to be part of the #realisrare movement, to support natural diamond mining and local communities and hope that this article has demonstrated another side to the diamond mining industry that you may not have previously been aware. Diamonds are a gift from Mother Nature that are to be enjoyed, admired and passed onto future generations. How lucky are we to have these beautiful resources on our planet? Let’s pledge to protect, honour and respect the process for enjoying these precious gems and to remember their true value in all that we do.

Adriana Lauren Traviati BSc (Hons)

Director, Saphira Diamonds

PhD Candidate, Exploration Geophysics, Monash University, Australia

* Mr. Rami Baron created the Young Diamantaires group in 2016, when he saw the need to help, introduce and inspire the next generation of Diamantaires through challenging times, and gave young people a voice by which to express their views on the ever-changing industry and to learn from other members, worldwide. His organization in the heavily over-subscribed Venetia Mine trip has set the scene for many wonderful events at natural diamond mines in future for so many other young industry professionals.

Diamond in normal range are colorless through light yellow. Fancy color diamonds are yellow and brown diamonds that show color beyond Z color or exhibiting any other color face-up. Such rare stones come in almost every color of spectrum but most importantly in blue, pink, green and red. As discussed in diamond grading article, diamonds in range of D-Z showing decrease in value by exhibiting color and the exact opposite happens for fancy color diamonds, their value increase by the strength and purity of color.

Graff Lesotho Pink Diamond, 13.33ct rough diamond

Pink Diamond: appearance of pink color in diamonds is a result of enormous pressure that leads to structural damage to the crystal lattice of the diamond after it has begun to grow. This distortion in the crystal structure cause internal graining which results in pink color zones to appear.

In fancy color diamonds, Color outweighs all other Cs (clarity, cut and carat) in determining the value. Color has three attributes that help grading it properly: hue (the appearance of red, blue, green, or anything in between), tone (the relative lightness or darkness of a color), and saturation (the relative strength or weakness of a color). The color
appearance of a diamond is the result of a combination of these three attributes.

The Okavango Blue; 20.46ct Type IIb ‘Fancy Deep Blue’ yielded from 41.11 rough diamond

Blue Diamond: Color of blue in diamonds is result of presence of Boron during formation. Boron is mostly available in larger quantities closer to the earth surface, therefore its presence in earth mantle where diamonds are formed is extremely rare, and that is why blue diamonds are so scarce.

The GIA color grading system uses nine grades to distinguish color ranges. These are: Fancy Vivid, Fancy Intense, Fancy Deep, Fancy Dark, Fancy, Fancy Light, Light, Very Light and Faint. For fancy colored diamonds, the general rule of thumb is that the stronger the hue, the more valuable the stone becomes.

Mouawad Dragon Diamond 54.21 fancy vivid yellow diamond yielded from 105ct rough diamond.

Yellow Diamond: Yellow in diamonds is caused by presence of nitrogen within the stone that filters blue/violet range of visible light spectrum and reflects yellow. Nitrogen is abundant in earth crust, it can often find a way into diamond during formation process.

Diamond types: pure carbon is the essential composition of diamonds. Many diamonds certain trace elements such as nitrogen or boron, acquired naturally during the formation. Availability of such trace elements and other imperfections are important because they cause the color and ultraviolet fluorescence reactions in diamond. The presence or absence of these lattice defects can affect a diamond’s appearance. Initially diamonds were divided in two types: Type I diamonds contain nitrogen and Type II diamonds show pure absence of nitrogen.

GIA Diamond Type Classification

Type Ia:
These diamonds contain nitrogen atoms in clusters. Approximately 95% of natural diamonds are type Ia. They normally vary from near-colorless to light yellow.  These so-called “cape” diamonds derived their name from diamonds that were initially mined in or near Cape Province, South Africa.

Type Ib:
These diamonds also contain nitrogen, but as isolated atoms instead of clusters. They are often bright yellow in color, and are extremely rare. The trade sometimes refers to these colors as “canary.”

Type IIa:
These diamonds have no measurable nitrogen or boron impurities; they are usually colorless but they can also be gray, light brown, light yellow or light pink.  Among all diamonds, those that are type IIa are chemically the most pure.

Type IIb:
These diamonds are known to conduct electricity. The trace element boron is responsible for most diamonds that are blue or grayish blue in color.

GIA Continuous Hue Circle

GIA Ligher Tone Hue Circle

GIA Darker Tone Hue Circle

Some of the 27 hue names include modifiers such as purplish or yellowish. A modifier in a hue name does not denote a lack of potential strength, or purity, to the color. Light or dark colors at low levels of saturation are challenging to discern. Thus, fewer terms are used in these areas (as evident in the hue circles for lighter and darker tone). These terms may be modified in one of two ways. The first is the use of the word pink as a substitute for red in the medium to light tones and moderate to weakly saturated versions of reddish purple, red-purple, purple-red, purplish red, red, orangy red, and reddish orange. The other is the addition of brown/brownish or gray/grayish to the description. As colors transition darker or weaker, they appear more brown or gray. Warm hues (such as yellow, orange, or red) appear browner as they darken or weaken; cool colors (such as blue or green) appear grayer. In each instance, the fancy grades and color descriptions represent a range of color sensations, not a “single” color sensation.

Aurora Green; 5.03ct fancy vivid green diamond sold at Christies for $16.8m

Green Diamond:Green color is caused by exposure to radiation, this natural phenomenon occurs when diamonds come in close contact with radioactive uranium from rocks near earth surface. In rare cases radiation can be found in groundwater sources. Research shows green diamonds are more common in alluvial deposits because diamonds transported to sources of radiation which is more likely than for radiation to exist near a kimberlite source of diamond.

In fancy color diamonds, clarity is not a determining  factor in value. Even diamonds with many inclusions that result in a low clarity grade are sought after by collectors as long as they display an attractive color face-up. Inclusions that can threaten the durability of diamond would lower the value significantly.

Size and shape are two aspects that can influence the color, larger diamonds usually have deeper pavilion that facilitates the farther light can travel in it. This can often lead to a richer, more intense color. The style of cut can also play a key factor in color. Usually mixed cuts like the radiant cut can intensify the color in diamonds and radiant  cut provides (including majority of fancy cuts) provides higher yield from the rough than a standard round brilliant.

For more information on fancy color diamonds, download GIA Colored Diamonds Color Reference chart booklet.