Far more than just a boutique,  deBoulle is a masterclass in elegance, warmth, and refined luxury. Every corner of this exquisite space has been thoughtfully curated to create a truly immersive experience. The boutique unfolds into a series of meticulously appointed rooms, each with its own personality and purpose. From salons dedicated to high jewelry, everyday jewels, and estate and vintage pieces, to a bold and sophisticated watch gallery featuring renowned names like Patek Philippe, every section invites exploration. The atmosphere is both indulgent and approachable, offering luxury without pretense.

One of the standout spaces is their intimate bridal salon, designed to feel like a cozy yet glamorous living room. With a beautiful fireplace, plush seating, and timeless decor, it’s the perfect setting for couples to discover the rings that will mark their forever moments.

Founded in 1983 by Denis and Karen Boulle, deBoulle has built a legacy that’s rooted in exceptional craftsmanship, family values, and a deep love of beautiful things. What began as a small salon in University Park’s Snider Plaza has grown into a 13,600-square-foot French-style villa that feels more like a private residence than a traditional jewelry store. The moment you walk through the iconic yellow exterior, you’re transported to a world where detail matters, service is personal, and jewelry is celebrated as wearable art.

And let’s talk about the jewelry. Whether you’re hunting for a rare diamond, a bespoke engagement ring, or a show-stopping piece of high jewelry, deBoulle offers a curated collection that speaks to collectors and first-time buyers alike. From their own in-house deBoulle Collection to designs by Buccellati, Mariani, and Giorgio B, every piece is chosen with intention. The craftsmanship is breathtaking, and each jewel feels as though it carries a story just waiting to be worn.

As someone who is constantly inspired by the world of fine jewelry, I was particularly drawn to the variety and richness of their offering. The high jewelry salon was nothing short of exquisite pieces that sparkle not just with diamonds and gemstones, but with artistry and history. The estate and vintage section is a treasure trove in itself, with timeless pieces that feel like little glimpses into another era.

Of course, no visit to deBoulle is complete without stepping into their extraordinary timepiece salons. As an authorized dealer for Patek Philippe, deBoulle has created an experience that mirrors the precision and prestige of these legendary brands. deBoulle also carries renowned brand such as Girard-Perregaux, Blancpain and Tudor to name a few.

The Patek Philippe salon, in particular, is truly something special—houses one of the largest inventories in North America. It’s an elegant space that speaks to serious collectors and curious admirers alike.

In 2015, the Boulle family welcomed a new generation into the business with the addition of Nick and with Emma in 2019. Their involvement marked a significant evolution for deBoulle, breathing fresh energy and vision into the iconic brand.

Nick, already well-established in the business, brings an added layer of precision and passion, not only from his involvement in deBoulle but also from his background as a professional endurance racer, competing in high-profile events like Le Mans and the Rolex 24 Hours of Daytona. His competitive drive and attention to detail translate seamlessly into his work with deBoulle, where craftsmanship and excellence are paramount. Meanwhile, Emma has added a modern touch to the family business, working closely with her mother, Karen Boulle, to develop collections that speak to contemporary tastes while maintaining the timeless elegance deBoulle is known for. Together, Emma and Nick represent a new chapter in the legacy of deBoulle, blending heritage with innovation, ensuring the brand remains at the forefront of fine jewelry.

What makes deBoulle truly unforgettable is the family behind the brand. The Boulle family infuses their passion into every detail of the experience.

Beyond the inventory, what really stayed with me was the energy of the boutique. It’s rare to find a space that feels so simultaneously grand and grounded. There’s an attention to detail that you can sense in the way the displays are curated, the way the rooms are lit, the way clients are greeted and guided. It’s luxury, but luxury with soul.

Whether you’re a collector, a bride-to-be, a watch enthusiast, or someone simply seeking a sparkling moment of inspiration, deBoulle is more than just a stop on your jewelry journey—it’s a destination in itself. It’s a place where the romance of jewelry is celebrated, where personal milestones are honored, and where exceptional service makes every guest feel like part of the family.

As I left deBoulle that January afternoon, I felt a renewed appreciation for the artistry and emotion behind fine jewelry. This is a boutique that understands not just what we wear, but why we wear it—how a single piece can carry meaning, memory, and magic. And that’s what makes deBoulle truly unforgettable.

Established by the visionary entrepreneurs, Chirag and Chinar Shah, in 2011. With headquarters in Antwerp, Belgium, Anita Diamonds has rapidly gained recognition for its unwavering commitment to quality and as of today Anita Diamonds has over 150 employees worldwide. Currently, Chinar is growing Anita Diamonds in the Middle East from their office in Dubai and Chirag’s daughter, Yashvi, has joined the company as the next generation.

Click to view slideshow.For the past decade, Anita Diamonds has been a symbol of Antwerp’s illustrious diamond legacy. Chirag started working in diamond industry at a young age in 1993. He and his brother lost their parents early in life and had a difficult upbringing. While under guardianship of their grandparents, Chirag decided to join the family business (diamond merchants) to provide for their family. After working for 2 years in Tel Aviv, he moved to Antwerp where he was working with one his uncles in polished diamonds business. 20 years into business, he and his brother decided to start their own company, Anita Diamonds, honoring their mother’s name. Since they had established an excellent reputation in the industry due to their hard work and unwavering commitment to their clients, they managed to start Anita Diamonds on their own which led to be a successful company.

The city itself boasts a rich heritage in the diamond trade, with a history dating back over five centuries. Antwerp’s diamond district is renowned worldwide, and Anita Diamonds plays a pivotal role in preserving and perpetuating this heritage. Their commitment to ethical sourcing and adherence to the Kimberley Process has not only contributed to the industry’s integrity but also upheld Antwerp’s reputation as a responsible and reliable source of diamonds.

Click to view slideshow.Furthermore, Anita Diamonds takes pride in empowering its workforce. Their commitment to education and training ensures that their employees are equipped with the skills and knowledge needed to excel in their craft. This investment in human capital not only reflects their commitment to quality but also supports the local community. Social responsibility is another aspect to Anita Diamonds, providing best facilities for their employees to thrive, as well as work life balance, Anita Diamonds sponsor many sport events to project the positive image for diamond industry.

Click to view slideshow.In an ever-evolving industry, Anita Diamonds remains dedicated to innovation. They continuously explore cutting-edge technologies to enhance the diamond-cutting process, ensuring that their diamond continue to shine brighter than ever. This forward-looking approach positions the company as a leader in the diamond sector, ready to embrace the challenges and opportunities of the 21st century. While visiting Anita Diamonds, I had the opportunity to visit their diamond manufacturing facility. Here is a video:

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One of the core elements that sets Anita Diamonds apart is their firm stand to the use of natural diamonds, a choice that embodies their dedication to authenticity, quality, and the preservation of Earth’s natural wonders. Their dedication to the authenticity of natural diamonds ensures that customers can be confident in the origin and quality of their precious gems. Every diamond in their collection is a natural masterpiece, unaltered by human hands beyond expert cutting and polishing.

Anita Diamonds; The most incredible team in Antwerp!

Anita Diamonds understands the immense responsibility that comes with being a player in the diamond industry. The company is committed to ensuring that every step of their supply chain adheres to ethical practices. From sourcing to cutting and polishing, Anita Diamonds prioritizes transparency and accountability. They actively engage with their suppliers to ensure that their diamonds are conflict-free and responsibly sourced, upholding the highest standards of corporate responsibility.

Click to view slideshow.Anita Diamonds represents the epitome of Antwerp’s diamond heritage. Their unwavering commitment to ethics, excellence, and sustainability, coupled with a forward-looking vision, ensures that this iconic company will continue to shine brightly on the global stage.

It all started in 2009 by deciding to educate myself about diamonds and gemstones, simply out of curiosity and passion I always had in my heart. I joined and completed the GIA AJP program and enjoyed every second. In April 2011, my husband and I were on my birthday weekend getaway in Gold Coast, Queensland. While we were lounging on the beach, I was talking nonstop about diamonds and jewellery. At some point, just to stop me from talking about something he had no interest in, (now he knows a lot and is interested), he suggested why don’t you write about this and share it with like-minded individuals? It was the very beginning of the blogging era, and his idea sparked a force to push me to blog about my passion for diamonds and jewellery.

2 days later and after lots of brainstorming with Hamed, we came up with the name Champagne Gem. The reason behind the name was that I loved champagne, and it was one of the most attractive colours in diamonds that were mined in the Argyle mine in Western Australia. I had the domain registered and created a very amateur blog on Blogger up and running. Then as you know life always has other plans for you so my blogging was on and off, but the passion never went away. Until there was word circulating about this new app; Instagram that allows you to share your photos.

I was a Blackberry person and whoever owned a Blackberry ever knows that we were looking down at iPhone! Since Blackberry didn’t have any app compatibility, my sister Bita (an iPhone person) opened the Instagram account for Champagne Gem in 2013. She started posting pictures from my blog but after months of convincing, I finally caved, gave up my Blackberry and switched to iPhone.

It was fascinating to see the growth of followers and posting on Instagram became more than a hobby; I felt I have a responsibility to continue as there is such an interest in the niche of diamonds and gemstones. Eventually, I met my partner in crime, Tracey on Instagram. We clicked instantly and after months of texts and video calls we established a partnership to do what we love together. A year later we met in person for the first time during Hong Kong March Show and never looked back.

We travelled the world a few times now together and were/are inseparable. We would’ve seen each other almost every 2 weeks in a different city around the world, and these past 14 months have been the hardest. If COVID-19 hadn’t happened, we would most likely be in Switzerland this time of the year, only if…
The past 6-7 years are just a whirlwind of travels, jet lags, airport life and lots and lots of stones and jewels. Looking back, I was so lucky to be on such a wonderful journey, meeting thousands and thousands of jewellers, fans and followers on a global scale. To top it, experiencing firsthand the magic of diamonds, the charm of gemstones and the elegance of jewellery. I’d never change a single thing and would do it all over again in a heartbeat. I truly hope to get back into it and continue where we left off suddenly 14 months ago as soon as COVID-19 is over for good.

Here is a glimpse into the wonderful world of gems & jewels, sharing some of the most unforgettable and remarkable moments of my journey. Just remember this is only the tip of the iceberg and there are a lot more moments to cherish, to see more and for additional details check Champagne Gem instagram page or contact me.

The Heart of Oklahoma Diamond is a symbol of a long lasting family business established in 1892 by B.C. Clark. Still family owned with Jim, Coleman and Mitchell Clark at the helm of the brand, B.C. Clark is a prominent jewelry house in Oklahoma. After nearly seven years of searching the globe, finally B.C. Clark family found the one diamond that would honor their family legacy!

A 38.05ct rough diamond was discovered from the ocean floor just off the coast of Namibia, Africa at the depth of 140 meters via De Beers Debmarine Namibia Vessel. The stone was laser-sawn to two parts, yielding a magnificent 18.92ct not only to fit BC Clark’s desire carat size (company’s founding year) but to create the most brilliant diamond with fancy intense yellow color that is as radiant as Oklahoma sunset! There is a SOL to the Heart of Oklahoma, a beautiful 5.01ct fancy yellow radiant-cut diamond yield from the same rough. The Heart of Oklahoma Diamond is a fascinating 18.92ct fancy intense yellow, internally flawless radiant cut diamond.

THE GENESIS EXHIBITION

After perfecting the diamond, B.C. Clark partnered with Harry Kotlar to use their old world technique of hand making jewelry. Harry Kotlar studied the family business, origin, B.C. Clark Sr. adventures back in the 1800’s in Indian & Oklahoma territories, the age of industrialism and steam locomotives to finally design a masterpiece that reminiscent all of the characteristics and legacy of B.C. Clark. The result is a sensational handmade masterpiece cradling The Heart of Oklahoma Diamond flanked with six perfectly custom cut tapered baguette diamonds. There is a surprise disc underneath the stone, a rose-gold disc representing the railway turntable in Purcell that is a significant part in B.C. Clark, Sr.’s voyage to find success in Indian Territory back in 1892.

It all started with a geometric design, a rough sketch and David Wiener, Harry Kotlar‘s grand son and head designer, discussing intricacies of the piece with the design team. After that the illustration is passed to the gouache artist to render the painting. From gouache painting to hand forging the metal, hand setting the diamonds and hand polishing the ring, everything is done by a small team of master artisans who have dedicated their lives to a specific element of jewelry-making to create the masterpiece that cradles the Heart of Oklahoma Diamond.

Harry Kotlar team went above and beyond to create an event that was exploring facets of art and style to showcase this masterpiece in an unprecedented way, beyond jewelry as we know it! Czarah Cabrera Creative Director and Director of Brand Management for Harry Kotlar had a vision in mind and that was Van Gogh’s Starry Night! Over the term of six month planning under her creative direction, the atrium in 101 Park Avenue is re imagined into a film and visual exhibit space using elements if scenes painted by Vincent Van Gogh. Yellow tones, twinkling colors of the night sky, blue waters and velvety blue sky applied to the space as tribute to The Heart of Oklahoma Diamond and homage to the jewelry design house’s long legacy of commitment to its pursuit of perfection and preserving the lost art of hand making the best jewels by its Italian master artisans.

Both Tracey and I had the pleasure of being invited to attend this spectacular event as guests of Harry Kotlar and B.C. Clark family, an unforgettable memory that we will cherish forever.

Here you can watch a 3 minute film revealing the art of hand making the masterpiece by Harry Kotlar master artisans, co directed by Czarah Cabrera & Ace Salvador:

The diamond mining industry has been long regarded as one of the most prestigious resource mining operations, and for good reason. Such precious stones have been created by Mother Nature, over the course of millions of years, in a few locations worldwide. Much like other mining and precious resources industries, the diamond mining industry has evolved through time from the first discovery of diamonds in some of the more remote places on the planet, to the current massive and sophisticated operations that now produce most of the world’s diamonds.

‘Blood Diamonds’ – Challenging a Long-Held Misconception of the Diamond Industry

Edward Zwick’s 2007 movie ‘Blood Diamond’ has cemented itself in the minds of many, and highlighted the need for greater and stricter regulation of diamond mines internationally. However, such tighter regulation was in fact already put in place and developing just a few years prior to the movie’s release. This regulation is known as the ‘Kimberley Process’ which prevents the proceeds of diamond sales from funding conflicts, terrorism or unlawful trading in the international diamond market and calls for the ethical treatment of workers, and the responsible use of funds and exports to conduct the mining of this precious resource. Many diamond mines globally now adhere to and follow the Kimberley Process. Unfortunately, despite the significant progress made by the industry over the past decade, there is still a lingering and widespread misconception about mining operations in the diamond industry.  Recently, I have had the opportunity to visit the world’s largest diamond mining company, De Beers, in South Africa, which enabled me to experience firsthand an in-depth, behind-the-scenes insight into the mining process, operation and challenges faced by the industry.

A Rare Glimpse into Diamond Mining

 In September 2019, De Beers opened its doors for the first time to the Venetia Diamond Mine to welcome 25 members of the Young Diamantaires* group; from over 10 countries. This was a group designed to represent the next generation of diamond industry members, founded by Mr. Rami Baron, Chairman of the Promotional Committee of the World Federation of Diamond Bourses (WFDB). The trip was also organized with great thanks to Mr. Ernest Blom, World President of the WFDB, Mr. Molefi Leftivski, Mr. Kealeboga Pule and Mr. Frank Auger. I was fortunate enough to be invited on this trip, and to learn first-hand, not only as a jeweller, but as an Exploration Geologist, about the mining operation and processing of rough diamonds at the mine site, and to experience conditions at the Venetia Mine. The colossal mine spans approximately 17.7 hectares, and contains two sections, an open-pit mine to a depth of 450 m, and an underground mine that spans nearly 1,000 m depth. The Venetia open pit mine opened in 1992, and provides the region with 4,365 jobs. It is South Africa’s largest diamond producer which produced 4.2 million carats in 2018. The underground portion of the mine has been deepened to a depth of 1,080 meters, extending the life of the mine until 2046, and producing a further 2,000 jobs in the process. This is no small operation, but what is not often discussed is the benefit that this scale of mining brings not only to local communities, but to the environment that it operates in and the development of the region. In light of the current trend towards synthetic stones and lab-created ‘diamonds’, there has never been a better time to discuss the key benefits of natural diamond mining.

The Unspoken Benefits of Natural Diamond Mining in South Africa

Perhaps not widely recognised is the major contribution large companies such as De Beers play in the role of education, healthcare, environment and employment in the communities and areas they are working in. While De Beers makes significant profits from diamond mining, major re-investment of capital back into local communities, the level of safety maintained at their mine sites and taking good environmental stewardship of the regions in which they operate is of paramount importance. De Beers promotes a strict policy of ‘Zero Harm’ with significant priority given to reducing Lost Time Injuries (LTI) at the Venetia mine site. De Beers were very forthcoming in sharing statistics and discussing incidents that have happened at the mine with full transparency. It was very apparent that employee safety is the company’s primary concern and taken extremely seriously. The mine site itself was clean and well-organized, with many safety measures in place to ensure safe and comfortable working conditions. One such example, was the installation of underground ‘rescue bays’, designed to rescue workers in the event of mine collapse or other major accidents where workers congregate in a secure area if trapped underground. We had the chance to speak openly with workers around the mine site who were on shift that day, and they were all too happy, allowing us to take photos and answer any questions that we had. Both women and men were working their shifts at the mine site wearing the appropriate safety gear and following procedure. The entire operation appeared well organised and managed with a strong emphasis on teamwork, following strict safety procedures while applying the ‘Zero Harm’ mindset to all tasks. Another key area that the company focusses on is the environment. One major example of this is when De Beers purchased 36,000 hectares surrounding the 17.7 hectares used for the Venetia Mine in order to create the Venetia Limpopo Nature Reserve (VLNR), which conserves and protects many native species, such as elephants, from harm and in particular poaching. Without the mine, this area would have been left as farming land excluding the protection and free range of many native species. De Beers is committed to preserving the natural landscape of South Africa, in that for every Baobab tree uprooted in the development of the Venetia Mine, the Baobab and its roots were preserved, and re-planted at the VLNR, in order to preserve the life of these iconic and important species. It is also important to note that one third of water used at the mine site is recycled for later use.

Investing In Their Future – Community Initiatives

In addition to providing thousands of jobs for local workers, the company has provided a multitude of benefits in terms of environmental and social benefits in the region. One such example is that De Beers has built 19 schools in the region to support the local community. The Limpopo region, where the mine is located, suffers from heavily over-enrolled schools, hence De Beers’ efforts in this area have been extremely important for young people. The company has also implemented the ‘De Beers Teacher Subvention Programme’ that provides the enhanced capacity for mathematics and science educators to work at schools. Such programs have been implemented at the Renaissance High School, Messina Primary, Eric Louw High School and Musina School. We were fortunate to visit the local Renaissance High School which revealed the extent of over-enrolment and an acknowledgement that there is still so much more to be done as the region expands. An important discussion was initiated by Mr. Baron, in which the participating Young Diamantaires members devised a plan to raise $140,000 USD to extend and upgrade the Renaissance Secondary School in the regional town of Musina in order to build a library and a commercial-grade cafeteria for the students studying at the school.  As an Exploration Geologist, I believe emphasis should be placed on working with secondary teachers to help develop a program for secondary students to learn about the Geosciences in order to provide them with a working background of how to responsibly explore for, mine and develop such precious resources.  These students are living in such a resource-rich country and such education would not only place them in a stronger position to understand the resources industry, but also enhance long-term job prospects. I will be exploring opportunities to volunteer at the end of my PhD studies to introduce more Geoscience education to secondary schools in this resource-rich region. Another very important area where De Beers makes an important contribution is its long-standing history of providing its employees with critical healthcare assistance. One such example is that as of 2019, nearly all of the company’s employees are aware of their HIV status and are fully medicated. In the last 10 years, there has been no HIV transmission between any mother employed by De Beers to her child which is a significant measure that demonstrates the company’s dedication to the healthcare of its employees.

The visit to the region also provided an opportunity to discuss initiatives to assist the growth and development of the Johannesburg-based diamond cutters. One initiative involves a pilot program of purchasing diamonds directly from the cutting and polishing manufacturers themselves in Johannesburg, as opposed to international intermediaries, in order to assist local business and to assist sales in the target countries. One final, but important fact is that De Beers has long-supported local women, with the Accelerating Women Owned Micro-Enterprises (AWOME) program. This program is designed to provide local women with micro-financed loans to start their own businesses and to create more jobs and administer business training in order to reduce the rate of unemployment, to reduce financial dependence and to build skills. Some such examples of these projects can be found at De Beers Group “Building Forever” initiative. These are just some of the benefits that have come from natural diamond mining. As discussed, the impact of the Venetia Mine has had far-reaching benefits across the communities in the region. While I have not had the experience of visiting many different diamond mines internationally, the experience to me as a diamond dealer, geologist and jeweller was invaluable. The transparency of De Beers in allowing us to view their operations at the Venetia Mine and speak to their people was greatly appreciated and underscores the confidence they have in their operations. It is my hope that every company follows this example, and employs similar practices and transparencies in mining their own diamonds.

The Synthetic ‘Diamond’ Trade – Marketing and Myths

The natural diamond mining industry is currently facing challenges from the synthetic diamond industry, which produces laboratory-manufactured diamonds. The story told by many synthetic or lab-grown diamond traders is that their stones are ‘conflict-free’, and ‘eco-friendly’. Firstly, it is simply incorrect to assume and market that all natural Earth-mined diamonds are derived from conflict areas, and mined in unethical, un-regulated mines used to fund terrorism and conflict. Secondly, in order to create a synthetic, or lab-made diamond, extreme temperature and pressure and the use of petroleum-based chemicals is applied to a ‘seed’ crystal to produce a fully man-manufactured stone. This process consumes a large amount of energy and chemicals, which produces a large quantity of emissions, heat and waste, per stone in large factories. This can hardly be argued as totally ‘eco-friendly’ when we consider the scale of production, the size of the factories and the methods for production that creates a synthetic stone.

The problem for synthetic diamond manufacturers is that while synthetic stones are still priced at ~20-30% less than natural Earth-mined diamonds, they actually cannot hold their value on the international market, which is a problem for the consumer. Why? Because anything that can be created en-masse in a laboratory with lack of scarcity value implies that the product’s supply is virtually endless, hence no appreciation or retention of value can be maintained. Consumers need to be made aware of the facts that divide lab-made and natural stones, and need to make the choice to purchase something beautiful and unique created by over millions of years that appreciates in value, or to compromise with an inferior product that cannot foreseeably hold its value, and has no limit to its supply. It is, however, important and reasonable to ask your jeweller or wholesaler where their diamonds are sourced to ensure that their diamonds are derived from conflict-free regions and regulated mines.

Our Diamonds and Process

At Saphira Diamonds, 100% of our diamonds are natural and Earth-mined, sourced from regulated mines in conflict-free regions.  We work only with manufacturers who purchase rough diamonds from mines that are regulated, and many who are part of the Responsible Jewellery Council and from countries and mines that follow the Kimberley Process. We recognise that purchasing diamonds is a significant investment and seek to provide our clients with the confidence, education and all of the facts required to make the right decision for them. We are proud to be part of the #realisrare movement, to support natural diamond mining and local communities and hope that this article has demonstrated another side to the diamond mining industry that you may not have previously been aware. Diamonds are a gift from Mother Nature that are to be enjoyed, admired and passed onto future generations. How lucky are we to have these beautiful resources on our planet? Let’s pledge to protect, honour and respect the process for enjoying these precious gems and to remember their true value in all that we do.

Adriana Lauren Traviati BSc (Hons)

Director, Saphira Diamonds

PhD Candidate, Exploration Geophysics, Monash University, Australia

* Mr. Rami Baron created the Young Diamantaires group in 2016, when he saw the need to help, introduce and inspire the next generation of Diamantaires through challenging times, and gave young people a voice by which to express their views on the ever-changing industry and to learn from other members, worldwide. His organization in the heavily over-subscribed Venetia Mine trip has set the scene for many wonderful events at natural diamond mines in future for so many other young industry professionals.

In my opinion couples need to be involved in designing the ring, after all it is celebrating their love and has a very sentimental value in cherishing their relationship. Therefore my first recommendation is to propose with a loose stone in a beautiful box which will definitely sweep her off her feet and then create the perfect ring together. Unless you know exactly what she is looking for based on her pinterest or posts she likes on social media and finally if her best friend knows!

Different diamond shapes Photo credit: Champagne Gem

Here you will find a brief explanation on different shapes with sample designs to show how each one will look when set, but remember there are endless design possibilities, I tried to limit this post to classics and all time favorite settings in the past decade:

ROUND

• ROUND: is the most sought after shape in diamonds because of its incomparable brilliance thanks to 57 facets that reflect the light and create sparkle and fire. (Not recommended for gemstones unless from a very high caliber)

Round Brilliant diamond engagement ring in Tiffany anniversary setting Photo credit: Tiffany & Co

SEMI ROUND

• OVAL: is one of the most popular shapes from diamonds to gemstones, make sure in diamonds there is no bow tie present, if so you will see two black triangles in the middle of the stone. because of its elongated shape we have seen it grow more and more on brides.

Oval shape diamond ring Photo credit: Norman Silverman

• PEAR: Usually looks larger than its stated carat weight because of its wider spread and given that more of the stone is shown from top view.
  

  Pear shaped diamond ring Photo credit: Harry Kotlar

• MARQUISE: like oval and pear is perfect to make fingers look slender and long, their elongated shape is helping with this.

Marquise shape diamond ring Photo credit: Martin Katz

• HEART: well its the symbol of love, do I need to say more? From diamonds to gemstones it looks gorgeous, one thing to be mindful is the proportions. Make sure it is not too slim or chubby, it has to be the perfect heart.
  

  Heart shaped diamond ring Photo credit: Graff

SQUARE CUT

• CUSHION: is a square or square rectangle (elongated) shape stone with rounded corners, pillow shape hence the name and very romantic! If cut perfectly can shine as brilliant as a round. Usually has 58 facets.
  

  Cushion shape diamond ring Photo credit: Tiffany & Co

• PRINCESS: this shape carries 57 or 76 facets and because of its pyramidal shape that has four bevelled sides, it creates more light dispersion than any other square shaped diamond. In recent years demand for princess cut has decreased which I think is solely because of its sharp corners and it only makes an statement when is in larger carat weights. It is getting harder and harder to find the perfect princess cut.
  

  Princess shape diamond ring Photo credit: Jean Dousset

• RADIANT: is gaining more and more popularity both in diamonds and gemstones because of its scattered 70 facets that create a shattered glassy look in diamonds and bring out the best colors in gemstones and fancy color diamonds. If you like square or rectangular squere shape, this is the best alternative to cushion and princess.
  

  Radiant cut diamond ring Photo credit: Norman Silverman

STEP CUT

• EMERALD: the most favorite in step cuts, both gemstones and diamonds although it has less sparkle because of geometric steps, but due to high clarity it is more transparent, sleek and elegant.
  

  Emerald cut diamond ring Photo credit: Norman Silverman

• ASSCHER/SQUARE EMERALD: perfectly square shaped stone, actually an octagonal rather than emerald cut that is rectangular. Same characteristics in terms of sparkle and clarity.
  

  Asscher cut diamond ring Photo credit: Martin Katz

• CARRE: comes in both square and rectangular, the main point of difference is its straight facets similar to steps and usually has sharp corners, this is my favorite shape in comparison to princess. It is making a come back slowly and because of its unusual facets it is gaining more attraction, absolutely will make a statement.
  

  Carre cut diamond ring Photo credit: Martin Katz

This is just an introductory post to engagement rings, if you need more information on diamonds, grading and color diamonds on following links:

https://champagnegem.com/2019/03/10/insight-into-diamonds-part-iii-grading/

https://champagnegem.com/2019/05/06/insight-into-diamonds-part-iv-fancycolordiamonds/

Please note all views expressed on this post are my own and do not represent opinions of any of the jewellers mentioned in this post.

Diamond in normal range are colorless through light yellow. Fancy color diamonds are yellow and brown diamonds that show color beyond Z color or exhibiting any other color face-up. Such rare stones come in almost every color of spectrum but most importantly in blue, pink, green and red. As discussed in diamond grading article, diamonds in range of D-Z showing decrease in value by exhibiting color and the exact opposite happens for fancy color diamonds, their value increase by the strength and purity of color.

Graff Lesotho Pink Diamond, 13.33ct rough diamond

Pink Diamond: appearance of pink color in diamonds is a result of enormous pressure that leads to structural damage to the crystal lattice of the diamond after it has begun to grow. This distortion in the crystal structure cause internal graining which results in pink color zones to appear.

In fancy color diamonds, Color outweighs all other Cs (clarity, cut and carat) in determining the value. Color has three attributes that help grading it properly: hue (the appearance of red, blue, green, or anything in between), tone (the relative lightness or darkness of a color), and saturation (the relative strength or weakness of a color). The color
appearance of a diamond is the result of a combination of these three attributes.

The Okavango Blue; 20.46ct Type IIb ‘Fancy Deep Blue’ yielded from 41.11 rough diamond

Blue Diamond: Color of blue in diamonds is result of presence of Boron during formation. Boron is mostly available in larger quantities closer to the earth surface, therefore its presence in earth mantle where diamonds are formed is extremely rare, and that is why blue diamonds are so scarce.

The GIA color grading system uses nine grades to distinguish color ranges. These are: Fancy Vivid, Fancy Intense, Fancy Deep, Fancy Dark, Fancy, Fancy Light, Light, Very Light and Faint. For fancy colored diamonds, the general rule of thumb is that the stronger the hue, the more valuable the stone becomes.

Mouawad Dragon Diamond 54.21 fancy vivid yellow diamond yielded from 105ct rough diamond.

Yellow Diamond: Yellow in diamonds is caused by presence of nitrogen within the stone that filters blue/violet range of visible light spectrum and reflects yellow. Nitrogen is abundant in earth crust, it can often find a way into diamond during formation process.

Diamond types: pure carbon is the essential composition of diamonds. Many diamonds certain trace elements such as nitrogen or boron, acquired naturally during the formation. Availability of such trace elements and other imperfections are important because they cause the color and ultraviolet fluorescence reactions in diamond. The presence or absence of these lattice defects can affect a diamond’s appearance. Initially diamonds were divided in two types: Type I diamonds contain nitrogen and Type II diamonds show pure absence of nitrogen.

GIA Diamond Type Classification

Type Ia:
These diamonds contain nitrogen atoms in clusters. Approximately 95% of natural diamonds are type Ia. They normally vary from near-colorless to light yellow.  These so-called “cape” diamonds derived their name from diamonds that were initially mined in or near Cape Province, South Africa.

Type Ib:
These diamonds also contain nitrogen, but as isolated atoms instead of clusters. They are often bright yellow in color, and are extremely rare. The trade sometimes refers to these colors as “canary.”

Type IIa:
These diamonds have no measurable nitrogen or boron impurities; they are usually colorless but they can also be gray, light brown, light yellow or light pink.  Among all diamonds, those that are type IIa are chemically the most pure.

Type IIb:
These diamonds are known to conduct electricity. The trace element boron is responsible for most diamonds that are blue or grayish blue in color.

GIA Continuous Hue Circle

GIA Ligher Tone Hue Circle

GIA Darker Tone Hue Circle

Some of the 27 hue names include modifiers such as purplish or yellowish. A modifier in a hue name does not denote a lack of potential strength, or purity, to the color. Light or dark colors at low levels of saturation are challenging to discern. Thus, fewer terms are used in these areas (as evident in the hue circles for lighter and darker tone). These terms may be modified in one of two ways. The first is the use of the word pink as a substitute for red in the medium to light tones and moderate to weakly saturated versions of reddish purple, red-purple, purple-red, purplish red, red, orangy red, and reddish orange. The other is the addition of brown/brownish or gray/grayish to the description. As colors transition darker or weaker, they appear more brown or gray. Warm hues (such as yellow, orange, or red) appear browner as they darken or weaken; cool colors (such as blue or green) appear grayer. In each instance, the fancy grades and color descriptions represent a range of color sensations, not a “single” color sensation.

Aurora Green; 5.03ct fancy vivid green diamond sold at Christies for $16.8m

Green Diamond:Green color is caused by exposure to radiation, this natural phenomenon occurs when diamonds come in close contact with radioactive uranium from rocks near earth surface. In rare cases radiation can be found in groundwater sources. Research shows green diamonds are more common in alluvial deposits because diamonds transported to sources of radiation which is more likely than for radiation to exist near a kimberlite source of diamond.

In fancy color diamonds, clarity is not a determining  factor in value. Even diamonds with many inclusions that result in a low clarity grade are sought after by collectors as long as they display an attractive color face-up. Inclusions that can threaten the durability of diamond would lower the value significantly.

Size and shape are two aspects that can influence the color, larger diamonds usually have deeper pavilion that facilitates the farther light can travel in it. This can often lead to a richer, more intense color. The style of cut can also play a key factor in color. Usually mixed cuts like the radiant cut can intensify the color in diamonds and radiant  cut provides (including majority of fancy cuts) provides higher yield from the rough than a standard round brilliant.

For more information on fancy color diamonds, download GIA Colored Diamonds Color Reference chart booklet.

The Tiffany Diamond, considered among the most important gemstone discoveries of the 19th century, was unearthed in 1877 in the Kimberley Mines of South Africa. Founder Charles Lewis Tiffany purchased the rough diamond weighed 287.42 for $18,000. Later the rough was brought to Paris where i was cut to its current shape; 128.54ct Facy Yellow diamond with over 82 radiant facets. In 1961 Jean Shlumberger showcased the proceless Tiffany Diamond in Ribbon Rosette necklacem, worn by Audrey Hepburn for the Breakfast at Tiffany’s publicity photo shoot. In 1995 in honor of Jean Schlumberger, the 128.54ct stone was mounted on his iconic Bird on a Rock setting. and finally in 2012 to celebrate Tiffany & Co 175th anniversary, with over a year in the making, the exquisite necklace of white diamonds with over 100cts of round and cushion cut diamonds, given shape to the icon we recognize today. The Tiffany Diamond in its current setting worn by Lady Gaga during 91st Academy Awards®.

The Tiffany Diamond

For the 2018 Blue Book, Tiffany & Co opted mother nature as inspiration and pieces were categorized based on seasons, hence the name: The Four Seasons of Tiffany & Co.

Colors, motifs, and exquisite craftsmanship were highlight of the collection. From rare gemstones to unique diamonds, each piece was designed and created meticulously. In some words this high jewelry collection is a celebration of 180 years of artistry, innovation and unparalleled virtuosity.

During the grand opening party with over 400 guests and flowing of champagne, Kendall Jenner made an appearance as guest of honor and as always was radiating beauty and glamour while wearing Tiffany & Co The Blue Book necklace featuring morganite, a pink tourmaline, pink sapphires and diamonds.

Kendall Jenner in Tiffany & Co necklace featuring morganite, pink tourmaline, pink sapphires and diamonds from The 2018 Tiffany Blue Book Collection 

Spring is ombre of colors, flowers, blooms and a graphic contrast between geometry and nature’s beauty.

Summer is all about butterflies, fluttering above angular links with abstract wing patterns, more emphasis on modern sense of movement.

Autumn is a sensual combination of round brilliant and emerald-cut diamonds with an organic and free flowing vines woven over and under one another.

Winter inspired by American Art Deco, displays linear fragments mirroring the graphic patterns of water as it freezes. Diamonds are cut in very unique shapes, the perfect iceberg landscape on a sea of platinum.

Bracelet in platinum with pink sapphires and diamonds, part of the 2018 Tiffany Blue Book Collection

Pendant in platinum with round and oval Tourmaline, baguette and custom cut diamonds, part of The 2018 Tiffany Blue Book Collection

Ombre of colours from The 2018 Tiffany Blue Book Collection

Ring in 18k yellow gold and platinum with rare Fancy Pink and white diamonds, part of the 2018 Tiffany Blue Book Collection.

20.27ct D VS1 oval-cut diamond in a platinum setting part of the 2018 Tiffany Blue Book Collection

Over 91cts of uniquely cut diamonds from The 2018 Tiffany Blue Book Collection

Now lets get into diamond grading, there are many laboratories who offer diamond grading worldwide, here are to name a few of the ones that are most heard of:

GIA (Gemological Institute of America)

HRD Antwerp

AGS (American Gem Society)

EGL (European Gemological Laboratory)

IGI (International Gemological Institute)

I am not going to get into details of how these labs work in grading stones but GIA has the highest consistency and standard in grading, therefore is the most reputable and trusted laboratory following by HRD Antwerp.

Now back to grading itself, after diamonds are mined and sort through the sorting system, they are offered in tenders by mining companies for buyers to offer the best price in acquiring a rough diamond. After acquiring the rough, it goes to different manufacturing facilities from Israel to India, Russia, UAE and many more countries. After planning, cut and polish the polished diamond is send off to a diamond grading laboratory to receive its certificate, having the certificate number is laser inscribed on the girdle of diamond for future tracking. All certificate numbers can be looked up on laboratories websites.

4Cs: the 4Cs of diamond quality is the universal method for assessing the quality of any diamonds, created by GIA

4Cs of Diamond Quality by GIA

Color: in diamonds, diamond color means lack of color; absence of color in a diamond makes it a gem quality diamond. A chemically pure and structurally perfect diamond has no hue. GIA D-Z color grading system measures the degree colorlessness by comparing the diamond under controlled lighting and precise viewing condition to master stones of established color value. Many of the color distinctions are so subtle that are invisible to naked (untrained) eye but those distinctions can have a very large impact on the quality and therefor the price.

GIA D-Z Color Scale

Colorless D-E-F

Near Colorless G-H-I-J

Faint K-L-M

Very Light N-O-P-Q-R

Light S-T-U-V-W-X-Y-Z

Clarity: Diamond clarity refers to absence of inclusions and blemishes. during formation of diamond a variety of internal characteristics called ‘inclusions’ and external characteristics called ‘blemishes’ occur in a diamond.

To evaluate diamond clarity, first we need to determine the number, size, relief, nature, and position of these characteristics, as well as how these affect the overall appearance of the stone. The closer a diamond comes to perfectly pure (absolute absence of inclusions and blemishes), the higher its value.

GIA Clarity Scale

GIA Clarity Scale has 6 categories, with some divided in total there are 11 specific grades:

• Flawless (FL) No inclusions and no blemishes visible under 10x magnification
• Internally Flawless (IF) No inclusions visible under 10x magnification
• Very, Very Slightly Included (VVS₁ and VVS₂) Inclusions so slight they are difficult for a skilled grader to see under 10x magnification
• Very Slightly Included (VS₁ and VS₂) Inclusions are observed with effort under 10x magnification, but can be characterized as minor
• Slightly Included (SI₁ and SI₂) Inclusions are noticeable under 10x magnification
• Included (I₁, I₂, and I₃) Inclusions are obvious under 10x magnification which may affect transparency and brilliance

Flawless & Internally Flawless

VVS 1,2 / VS 1,2

SI 1,2 / I 1,2,3

Cut: Diamonds are known for transmitting light and sparkle intensely therefore a diamond’s cut is crucial to the interaction of diamond’s facets and light. Diamond’s cut is the most complex and technically difficult to analyze.  It is pure artistry and workmanship to cut a diamond that its proportions, symmetry and polish deliver the maximum return of light and create desirable visual effects such as:

• Brightness: Internal and external white light reflected from a diamond
• Fire: The scattering of white light into all the colors of the rainbow
• Scintillation: The amount of sparkle a diamond produces, and the pattern of light and dark areas caused by reflections within the diamond

Often a diamond’s cut is mistaken with diamond’s shape but diamond’s cut grade is about how well a diamond’s facets interact with light. 

Diamond CutThe distance from the bottom of the girdle to the culet is the pavilion depth. A pavilion depth that’s too shallow or too deep will allow light to escape from the side of the stone or leak out of the bottom. A well-cut diamond will direct more light through the crown.

Excellent

Very Good

Good

Fair

Poor

Diamond’s cut grade only applies to round brilliant diamond, for the rest if fancy shapes (any shape beside round brilliant is considered a fancy shape) due to their complexity in facets and steps only grading for polish and symmetry is available.

Carat:Diamond carat weight is the measurement of how much a diamond weighs. A metric “carat” is defined as 200 milligrams. Each carat is subdivided into 100 ‘points.’ This allows very precise measurements to the hundredth decimal place.

Diamond Carat Weight

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